The alternative is a patch pocket, where a piece of cloth is simply laid on top of the jacket, with the top open. This is not very common as a breast pocket, because it stands out much more than a hip pocket, and so makes the jacket look much more casual.
Black tie, being the smartest thing you are likely to wear, should always have jetted pockets (above). A smart suit should usually have flapped pockets. And a very casual sports jacket will usually look better with patches.
English tailors also have a tendency towards those large, square patch pockets when asked to put them on the hips. Partly because they were mostly commissioned for things like hunting jackets in the past.
Ticket pockets do have a long history though, at least back to the Golden Age and the glory days of railway travel across Britain, so not a contemporary trend necessarily. This is not to say that I like them, however, as I prefer to lean toward a cleaner and more minimalist look.
No doubt different body types may benefit more or less from a ticket pocket. I am very thin but tall, and find the ticket pocket a helpful detail precisely because it adds clutter, but in an elegant way, to break up the clean lines a little to de-emphasize my disproportionate height.
There seemed to be a trend a few years ago of RTW suits adopting bespoke styling (ticket or hacking pockets; coloured linings). So there was a danger of what you thought was a unique bespoke style ending up looking rather passé.
I suppose essentially pockets takeaway from the symmetry of a jacket and can have a heavy effect of the proportions and appearance of a jacket.Ticket pockets just spoil the symmetry of a jacket.Patch pockets seem to add to the width of a jacket and take away from the slimming silhouette that everyone hopes to achieve.Thus my preference is always for slanted pockets.
Italian tailors generally, make pockets after the first fitting, so welt pocket and cross pockets will be between canvas and lining. British do the opposite they like to make pockets before canvassing, welt pocket will stay between fabric and canvas, for the cross pocket they will make a cut to pull it through the canvas. so the main difference at the end is in the welt pocket.
Thank you for the article Simon. I am currently making a Linen jacket for the summer with my Tailor. Regarding pockets, I am thinking about not having hip pockets at all. What would be your initial reaction to this? My reasoning behind it is minimise material to make it as light and breathable as possible. Also, I tend not to use the hip pockets as anything with weight e.g. phone tends to bulge the silhouette.Your thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Simon have you found there to be any variance regarding the placement of hip pockets on a jacket? Either distance from the bottom of the jacket or where the pocket would sit on your body? Wondering if this plays into house or regional styles or if it changes pending button placement, pocket style etc (realise ticket pockets and hacking pockets would obviously be different to all others). Thank you.
Helpful article. I was wondering if jetted pockets on sports jackets are generally considered a no-no? Realized that the used of jetted pockets on Italian-style inspired jackets (i.e softer tailoring) is an increasingly popular look.
I would worry about the balance though. It will mean the pockets and buttoning point will be lower, and the vents shorter. It also means Pio has to recut the line of the opening below the waist button.
Simon, I am stocky and of average height. I prefer not to have flap pockets at the waist. I am thinking of making a waistcoat with flap pockets at the chest and jetted pockets at the waist. Would this be a bit of a mess or would it work?
Hi Simon, I commissioned a sports jacket from Ciardi and expect to receive it soon. I carry around a lighter, which I want to keep away from scratches(St Dupont), and I was wondering where I should request the tailor to make a small internal pocket for me without ruining the appearance of the jacket.
Thanks, Simon.The lighter is pretty heavy, and I have noticed that when I put it in the outside pocket of my current jacket, the jacket becomes unbalanced because of the weight of the dense weight of the lighter. Do you think a smaller in breast pocket might solve this?
People cannot always leave home emptyhanded and pockets are a convenient way to carry things. Why they exist may have an easy answer, but a better question is why place one in a location as obvious as the breast pocket? Here is a small summary of the story of how the breast pocket began and why it still exists.
Pockets sewn onto clothing were a convenient addition to modern outfits. Unfortunately, pickpockets were often a concern and pants pockets were an easy target for the thieves. Interior jacket pockets and those on shirt fronts made it easier to keep valuables secure.
Carrying a handkerchief was a necessity when no disposable tissues or easily available public restrooms existed. Men chose to use their breast pocket for their handkerchief because it was cleaner and less cluttered than other pockets. Pants pockets were often filled to capacity as they were a place for watches, money, and cigarette lighters.
A breast pocket handkerchief was also more accessible when a gentleman needed to offer one to a lady in need. The removal of a crumpled handkerchief from a pants pocket may have lacked the elegant allure of pulling one out from a jacket with a flourish. Since most people are right-handed, the left side of the shirt became the standard location for easier access.
The breast pocket plays an important role in Hollywood. Pop culture icons like James Dean and Marlon Brando gave the pocket T-shirt visibility. Men everywhere suddenly sported white pocketed shirts to emulate the men they admired.
The Andy Griffith Show of the 1960s showed how the village of Mayberry remained safe because of a breast pocket. The shirt pocket was where a well-meaning deputy named Barney Fife carried the single bullet he was allowed for emergencies.
In the real world, the breast pocket has been credited with saving the life of an American hero during his presidential run. In 1912, an assailant's bullet struck Theodore Roosevelt in the chest as he was leaving a rally. The bullet penetrated the folded 50-page speech in his pocket and came to rest against his ribcage, rather than in his lung.
The Bull Moose Party leader continued to his next stop and gave a 50-minute speech before seeking medical attention. Doctors later found the bullet, but it was never removed. The Smithsonian Museum now has the first page of the speech on display. Unfortunately, the breast pocket that held the papers was overlooked and is not included in the exhibit.
President Roosevelt's is not the only life spared by a breast pocket. Sam Houston, Jr., the son of General Sam Houston, was saved from a musket ball during a Civil War battle when a bible in his breast pocket stopped the projectile. In 2014, an Ohio bus driver was shot three times in the chest but survived thanks to a copy of the New Testament in his shirt pocket.
Throughout history, the breast pocket has outsmarted pickpockets, saved lives, and made it easier to be a gentleman. Men can now find pocket-free casual and formal clothing, but many still prefer the convenience and style of the breast pocket. At Over Under Clothing, our inventory includes men's shirts with or without pockets so everyone can find what appeals to them.
Background: Breast implant-associated infection and capsular contracture are challenging complications that can result in poor outcomes following implant-based breast surgery. Antimicrobial irrigation of the breast pocket or implant is a widely accepted strategy to prevent these complications, but the literature lacks an evidence-based consensus on the optimal irrigation solution.
Methods: A systematic review was performed in March 2020 based on the following search terms: "breast implant," "irrigation," "antibiotic," "bacitracin," "antiseptic," "povidone iodine," "betadine," "low concentration chlorhexidine," and "hypochlorous acid." Capsular contracture, infection, and reoperation rates were compared by analysis of forest plots.
Conclusions: Our study supports the use of antibiotics or povidone-iodine for breast implant irrigation. Further research is required to better determine which of these 2 irrigation types is superior.
Background: Specific antimicrobial breast pocket irrigations have been proven over the past 20 years to reduce the incidence of capsular contracture by a factor of 10, and the emergence of breast implant-associated anaplastic large cell lymphoma (BIA-ALCL) and its link to bacteria/technique has created renewed interest in different antimicrobial breast pocket preparation agents. Our previous studies have identified that both Betadine-containing and non-Betadine-containing antimicrobial irrigations provide excellent broad-spectrum bacterial coverage. The current science of BIA-ALCL has implicated the Gram-negative microbiome as a key in pathogenesis.
Objectives: The aim of this study was to revisit the antimicrobial effectiveness of clinically utilized Betadine and non-Betadine solutions, along with other antimicrobial agents that have not yet been tested, against multiple organisms, including additional common Gram-negative bacteria associated with chronic breast implant infections/inflammation.
Methods: Current and new antimicrobial breast irrigations were tested via standard techniques for bactericidal activity against multiple Gram-positive and Gram-negative strains. Test results are detailed and clinical recommendations for current antimicrobial irrigations are provided.
There is a limited quantity of literature assessing the appropriate use of antibiotics and antiseptics in implant-based breast surgery. Consequently, there is controversy over the best method to administer antibiotic and antiseptic prophylaxis. 041b061a72